Shea Butter Benefits

What's all the hype about Shea Butter these days? We see Shea Butter in everything from skin care products to baby wipes and yes,chocolate. Shea Butter comes from the Shea tree called Karite, also known as the Mangifolia, which grows wild only in Africa. Shea Butter is made from the pulp extracted from the nuts of the tree. Many unsuccessful attemptes have been made to cultivate the Karite tree.

Shea butter has been used for generations for treating skin wounds, sunburn, blemishes and wrinkles. Shea Butter's deep healing properties works miracles on skin irritations, such as, and shaving. Other benefits are rough elbows, cracked heels and when rubbed on tummys during pregancy, helps prevent stretch marks.

Shea Butter benefits are numerous due to its phytonutrient makeup. Vitamin A gives Shea Butter its moisturizing qualities and Vitamin E acts as an anti-aging agent and protects against free radical damage. The skin readily absorbs Shea Butter, which helps stabilize and restore its optimum moisture level. Shea Butter is recommended for all skin types.

What is Rosacea?

Rosacea can be a devastating condition for both men and women and unfortunately there are no known cures at this time. Rosacea seems to be more prevalent in fair skinned individuals, although it can effect anyone. The most important thing is to know the signs or changes to your skin and to seek professional help early. There are varying theorys as to what causes rosacea, one being a disorder of the blood vessels that may cause the flushing to the face. Another theory relates to Helicobacter Pylori which causes an infection or bacteria in the stomach, and the third theory is a fungus called Demodex or microscopic skin mites. There is no proof to any of these theories.

The first signs of rosacea is a flushing which gives a copper tone to the skin. This flushing is an all over redness that does not go away. If this first condition goes untreated by a physician it may progress to pustules and papules on the face. The final stage is a seriously inflamed condition on the entire face with deep painful firm nodules and papules. In severe cases of rosacea, other areas can be affected such as, the eyes, scalp, neck, chest and ears. If redness and burning occur in the eyes, it is imperitive that you see a physician immediately, to prevent serious damage to the eyes.

Once you have been diagnosed with rosacea, how can it be treated? Most physicians treat rosacea with anti-biotics, but because of negative effects from long term use, topical treatment is generally considered as an alternative. Another treatment that have seen good results is IPL, or intense pulse light. IPL helps reduce redness and visible blood vessels. This treatment can be used along with anti-biotics.

Once you have established a treatment plan with your physician, you may want to see your medical aesthetician and review possible products and peels that may work synergistically with your medical treatment. I have had great success with my patients using PCA peels formulated by Physician's Choice of Arizonia. Salicylic acid is a primary ingredient in PCA peels, which helps diminish the bronze/red skin tone that accompanies rosacea, plus helps control future acne breakouts. Skin care products must be carefully selected and be gentle enough not to cause further irritation. Avoid scrubs, bleaches and most acid peels. Lifestyle changes can also play a major role in keeping rosacea flareups at bay. Extreme heat and cold are elements to avoid, especially during a flareup. Avoid spicy and acidic foods, sweaty workouts, alcohol, especially red wine, harsh cosmetics containing alcohol or strong fragrance.

The most important thing when you suspect you may have signs of rosacea is to seek medical help at soon as possible. Even though there are no cures at the present time, rosacea can be controlled. With the proper treatments it is possible to have beautiful glowing skin.

Glycolic Acid

In my medical aesthitician practice I am often asked, "What is glycolic acid and why is it used in skin care products?"

Glycolic acid is a non-toxic alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) occurring naturally in sugar cane and sugar beets. Other natural AHA'S are lactic acid from milk, malic acid from apples, citric acid from limes and lemons, oxalic acid from sauerkraut, and tartaric acid from grapes. Glycolic acid derived from sugar cane is found to be the most effective natural acid used for peeling due to its small single chain molecular structure, which allows better skin penetration.

Once glycolic acid is applied on the skin, it begins to break down the "intercellular glue" that binds the outer skin cells together. As this occurs, the outer skin cells are released and easily exfoliated away. Old skin cells that build up on the skins surface cause a dull lifeless appearance. The "rapid cell turnover" caused by the use of glycolic acid will bring a healthy new luster and clarity to the skin.

The outer layer of skin or epidermis is also the skins protective layer. Once the underlying dermis realizes its protective layer is being disturbed, it begins to kick out new skin cells causing the outer cells to turnover more rapidly. Once this cell buildup is removed from the outer layer, the glycolic acid can work more effectively on the second major layer of skin, the dermis. The dermis is our cushion or support for the epidermis, and that support eventually breaks down due to the aging process. A good analogy would be a basket weave that has aged and some of the weave has pulled apart weakening its strength. The same thing happens to the structure of the underlying dermis and the skin begins to weaken, wrinkle and sag, thus loosing its elasticity. Glycolic stimulates collagen and elastin in the dermis, helping to restore its support. Fine lines and wrinkles will diminish and a youthful glow appear as the skins health and support is restored.

Some acne scars can be diminished by continued use of glycolic acid. As the surface layer is continually exfoliated it begins to smooth out, while at the same time the under layer is building support. The acne scars soften and flatten out making them less visible. The results may not be apparent for several months.

Glycolic acid purges pores and causes them to behave more normally. As dead cells build up inside the follicle and harden, a plug is created that prevents sebum or oil from reaching the skins surface. Trapped sebum can result in acne and potential scarring. Glycolic acid will keep these pores clean and unclogged. White heads or milia are also a result of sebum trapped under the skin. If this pore was open the white head would be a black head and easily treated, but since it is trapped below the surface and has no way out, it will continue to impact until it is a hard seed. Continual use of glycolic acid will allow these tiny white seeds to be realesed. It may take a few months for this to happen, but with pores now free of debris they will appear smaller and less noticeable.

Overall, skin health can be restored and texture and tone returned to a youthful glow. The strength of glycolic right for you depends on your particular skin type and tone. I always suggest starting with a 10% solution for average skin types and 15% solution for thicker acne prone skin. Severely sun damaged skin may want to start lower and eventially work up to a 20% strength. Delicate and more sensitive skin should consider a 5% glycolic in a creme base moisturizer.

One important point to remember when purchasing glycolic acid products is that not all glycolic acids are created equal. The majority of glycolic products purchased in department stores and drug stores have been buffered to lower their ph to take the sting out. It may state on the bottle 10% to 12% glycolic acid. but in fact buffering glycolic acid drops its level to 5%, thus loosing most of its potency. If it doesn't sting this generally means it has been buffered.

Please feel free to respond to my glycolic acid information. I will welcome your questions and comments.

Sincerely,
Barbara